Your Guide to Living in St. Petersburg, Russia

ADJUSTING TO LIFE IN RUSSIA

Culture

Russian culture has many differences, and many similarities, to American culture. It will take a significant amount of time to adjust. People will tell you a lot about Russian culture in your preparation, and not all of it is accurate. However, there were certain things people said to us that continue to stick in our minds and play themselves out every day. Here are some guidelines:

Differences:

1. Personal Space – Russians have a different understanding of personal space. If you are bumped into on the Metro or on the street, the person will just keep on walking without a word of apology. Only foreigners say “excuse me.” You will grow to push your way through the streets and tunnels as well.
2. Introductions – Another important thing to know is that Russians aren’t big on introductions; basically, if you are in the same place at the same time, they assume that you will eventually come to learn each other’s names. This aspect of Russian culture may come across as coldness or aloofness, but it is simply normal here. You will need to make a concerted effort to introduce yourself and keep track of the many Masha’s, Misha’s, and Marina’s you will meet.
3. Personal Invitations – Do not expect an invitation to the home of a Russian. It is simply not a part of local culture and is a reflection of the closed nature of the community. You should continue to be warm and inviting to members of the community, even if they do not reciprocate. While we received great hospitality from Americans and Israelis, we were never (not once!) invited into the home of a Russian for social reasons. Maybe you’ll have more luck than we did in this department!
4. Information Sharing – Our friend Avi Rubel told us, “Don’t expect a lot of communication from Russians. In Soviet society, there was no benefit to sharing information with others. Information was something to be hoarded for your own personal advantage.” In other words, Russians are not very proactive when it comes to sharing valuable information with you or keeping you on their radar screens; know beforehand that you will need to ask questions constantly and invite yourself to important events and meetings.
5. Taking Initiative – We found that a lot of people do not willingly accept work responsibilities from anyone other than their direct supervisor and certainly do not volunteer to take on projects. In this regard, you will need to team up with Menachem (or whoever your supervisor is) to help move initiatives forward. In the light of all our failures to launch new programs, we kept one thing in mind: anything we did was better than nothing. You should see even the smallest successes as important milestones in moving this community forward.
6. Concept of Time – The concept of time is quite different here. Meetings often start late, deadlines are missed, and programs are planned at the last-minute. Things progress incredibly slowly, and often people require a little nudging and prodding. Do not expect things to happen on time, just because a time deadline was set.
7. Limited Jewish Offerings – Another important piece of insight came from Simon Caplan, who said, “Judaism in America is a grocery store. You can walk in and select a little dairy, a little meat, some candy, and even school supplies. In Russia, Judaism is like a cheese shop: you can have anything you want as long as it’s cheese.” You will see the way this plays out in the emphasis Russians place on culture (music, dance, singing, etc.) and formal learning (i.e., in a classroom with a lecture); they have not yet embraced more diverse programming like you would find in an American Hillel or informal education, like you might find at an overnight camp.

Similarities:

1. Young People – We found the young people to be extremely ambitious and enterprising. In general, they understand the value of English and are eager to learn the language. They are technologically savvy, friendly, and will sometimes make an effort to get to know you. Some young people want to make a lot of money and become biznesmenki. Like American youth, most Russian youth don’t think twice about spending a lot of money on little luxury items, like coffee, video games, cigarettes, etc.
2. Technology – Contrary to the idea that Russia is sometimes “backwards,” technology here keeps pace with Western technology. Internet cafes and wifi services are available (although you may pay per MB of bandwidth). Most young people in the Jewish community have mp3 players and access to the Internet.
3. Consumerism – Along with the free market economy, Russia has also adopted the American principles of consumerism. There is high-end, designer shopping on Nevsky Prospekt and on Bolshoy Prospekt (near Petrogradskaya Metro station). Much like how people carry Starbucks cups as a status symbol in the US, Russian women carry Rive Gauche bags. You can buy just about anything in Russia, but you will pay 3-4 times the price for imported goods in Russia. Fortunately, there are stores where you can also buy items (especially food) at “real prices” that Russians (and JSC volunteers) can afford.

Weather

Enjoy the summer, because it is fleeting on this side of the world. June and July are gorgeous, with the “White Nights” and the fun touristy activities (for example, the Summer Garden and the fountains at Peterhof). From May through September, you can expect the temperature to be over 10 °C (50 °F), meaning that you can spend time comfortably outside. This is also a good time for day-trips to interesting places like Novgorod or Gatchina. While the days are long and you can be outside, enjoy it; save the indoor activities, like the Russian Museum, Hermitage, and the theaters, for the winter! The temperature begins dropping in September and October, and you’ll notice that the days become shorter. We were fortunate and experienced an extremely mild winter, and we deftly avoided the worst parts by spending three weeks in Israel during January. See more on the Russian winter below under “Packing.”

Getting Around

Public transportation in St. Petersburg is, in general, fantastic. There were relatively few places that we could not access via public transport. We recommend that, upon your arrival, you find yourself a good city map that you keep on you at all times. (We’ve often had to show locals that they are going the wrong way!) In addition, you should buy a complete public transportation map, which looks like a little booklet and includes trams, buses, and marshrutki; they are usually available for sale at the city’s many kiosks, especially those located in the Metro.

1. Metro – You will grow to love the Metro, for all its crowdedness, deafening trains, and dirt. It will take you all over the city for cheap (14 rubles per ride) and it is extremely reliable (2-3 minute waits for trains is the norm). Although it will be necessary at times, try to avoid carrying large luggage on the Metro, as there are long stairways and pushy travelers to contend with. As your first action, you should buy an electronic kartichka; this pass-card gives you a range of purchasing options, including buying rides without a time limit, as well as week-long and month-long passes. Students also receive a special discount, although we were never informed of what this was or how to take advantage of this. We found that buying 40 rides per 30 days was enough for our Metro needs. See Appendix 13 for a Metro map.
2. Marshrutki – Another critical form of Russian public transportation is the marshrutka, similar to Israel’s sherut system of shared taxis. These are also cheap (10-17 rubles), crowded, and follow a pre-determined route that can change at a moment’s notice due to traffic, accidents, etc. These are very useful for getting to/from the airport, to/from the synagogue from Sennaya Ploschad, and to/from tourist destinations like Pushkin and Pavlovsk. The complete public transportation map has a full listing of marshrutkas and their routes.
3. Buses, Tramways, Trolleybuses – These are also extremely helpful and useful. You board the car, and the conductor will come and ask for your fee (usually 10-15 rubles). One word of warning: the route numbers are specific to each type of transportation, so don’t assume that the number 5 bus is the same as the number 5 trolleybus. You will need the phrase, “Vui doyedete do ____?” to ask if a vehicle goes toward a certain destination.
4. Taxis and Gypsy Cabs – Real taxis are extremely expensive and require that you order them beforehand. Unless you plan on working late at YESOD on a regular basis, so that you require taxi transportation home, we recommend that you avoid them as much as possible. Gypsy cabs are even more sketchy—although Russians use them constantly and claim they are safe, JDC discourages you from using them. If you must use one, follow these guidelines: (a) Never travel alone. (b) Don’t get in a car with two or more men. (c) Ask a native Russian speaker to accompany you.
5. Walking – This is the best way to see the city, especially if you have an mp3 player and podcasts to keep you company as you trek around the city. Always carry an umbrella and a map, because you never know when it might rain or you might get lost. You will very quickly learn the 20-minute walk from Nevsky Prospekt Metro to Palace Square, the 15-minute walk from Nevsky Prospekt Metro to the fancy hotels near St. Isaac’s Cathedral, the 15-minute walk from Sennaya Ploschad Metro to EVA, etc.

Packing

There is a saying in Russia that there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing. Buy everything—long johns, a long down parka, and a couple pairs of comfortable, waterproof boots—at home where sales make winter clothing relatively inexpensive (especially off-season, when you are likely leaving).We stocked up at Sierra Trading Post and Zappos.

In general, when it is above 4 °C outside, you can wear normal clothing and avoid long underwear. Less than 2 °C and you have to really limit your exposure to the cold. Bring plenty of long underwear (of various weights), boots, waterproof gloves, wool socks, sweaters, scarves, hats, etc. However, keep in mind that Russians do NOT have the same large wardrobes as Americans; a few pairs of jeans and just a few sweaters layered in new and creative ways is all you truly need; any more than that will distinguish you as a well-off American.

In terms of toiletries, most drugs can be acquired over-the-counter in Russia. But beware; there is no FDA here, so you never really know what you are getting. Better to bring familiar brands of drugs and pharmaceuticals with you from home. We brought all of our pharmacy items (tampons, contact solution, deodorant, disposable razor blades, Advil, etc.) with us from the US. It’s all available here, but typically at 2-4 times the price.

Some items that are hard/impossible to find in St. Petersburg include:

• Dryer sheets
• Baking powder, vanilla extract, and artificial sweeteners
• Ziploc bags of all sizes

A few luxuries will go a long way to making the experience a bit more comfortable:

• Chocolate chips—yes, they help make some creature comforts from home, like chocolate chip cookies, which are handy when someone asks you to host an “American” event
• DVDs – we spent a LOT of time at home, and TV series like Lost and Entourage were great ways to pass the time
• Family recipes, especially for holiday goodies like hamantashen

Logistics

There are many logistical challenges that you may have to overcome. Here are some tips:

1. Health Care – While we were here, Alyson needed to see a doctor twice. We were extremely pleased with the medical care provided by the American Medical Clinic (78 Moika emb., 7-812-740-2090, http://www.amclinic.ru). The doctors are Russian, but most have received Western training. Most of the nurses and doctors on staff speak English; if the medical professional you are seeing does not speak English, you can request a translator. The front desk staff is friendly and helpful. They even take emergency appointments in the evenings and on the weekends, or provide home care, if necessary.

2. Banks and Money – Foreigners cannot open bank accounts in Russia, so you will need to keep your American bank account and access it electronically. We use USAA, since they do not charge for ATM withdrawals anywhere in the world. (You have to be related to a member of the military to use USAA, but I believe ING Direct has the same arrangement.) Many ATMs in St. Petersburg do not work with international ATM accounts; we have found that the most reliable ones to use are those located in the Metro stations. However, you should consult with your bank prior to departing the US to be sure that you will be able to use your ATM in Russia. (Some banks, we have heard and witnessed, block all withdrawals in the FSU because of high white collar crime rates.) Credit cards are not widely used, so be prepared to have cash on hand for almost all purchases. When you are able to use credit cards, you will often be asked to show your documents.

3. Identification – You will need to carry your “documents” with you all at times. We suggest that you keep your passport safely at home, along with the original copy of your visa and registration. (You have to register with the authorities within 3 days of entering the country.) Keep photocopies of all three documents on your person at all times; they often stop men more than women, but regardless, the police expect you to have it available and ready if asked. We were stopped once and told that our papers were not in order (even though they were) and we were forced to pay a bribe. This type of corrupt behavior is pretty normal, sadly, so be prepared for it. It is a good idea to keep a duplicate copy of your documents at the JDC office.

If you are able to take a class locally and secure a student ID for yourself, it will come in handy in many ways. First, it will be your only form of photo ID in Russian, which is helpful when someone asks for your ID but can’t read English. Second, it explains why you are here, just in case you run into a sticky situation and don’t want to reveal your Jewish connection. Third, it is a great source of discounts!

4. Grocery Shopping – Having lived overseas before, we strongly believe that you cannot be happy in your new environs until you’ve found a good grocery store! There are small, cheap and “Soviet-like” stores called produckty on nearly every third block in the city. They are great for picking up bread, eggs or milk and some are even open 24 hours. But for big shopping trips, you may want to find a bigger grocery store that offers more imported items. Here are a few Metro-accessible, large grocery stores that we recommend:

· Perekrestok near Sennaya Ploshad (in the basement of the PIK glass-façade mall)

· Okey near Ozerki Metro

· Lenta near Baltiskaya Metro (turn right out of the train station and it’s a half block down on your right)

· Patterson near Sportivnaya Metro

· Lend near Dostoevskaya Metro (inside a courtyard next to the Dostoevsky hotel)

· Globus Gourmet in Varshavsky Vokzal (Warsaw Train Station) near Baltiskaya Metro (just past Lenta) – this is the fanciest grocery store in the whole city, comparable to Dean & Deluca in the United States

You can get tofu (called tofu seer, or tofu cheese, in Russian) near the eggs at Perekrestok or Okey. It took me a long time to find it when we first arrived, but it’s much more readily available now, less than a year later.

If you are looking for fresh and delicious fruits, veggies, spices, or fresh dairy products, try a local rinak, or market. It’s much like an Israeli shuk. Our favorite is a few blocks from the Gorkavskaya Metro stop, but there’s a market in just about every neighborhood. There, you’ll find friendly Georgians and other Russian minorities selling the most delicious fresh fruits, veggies and other items. The quality is far better than at the stores, but it’s a bit more expensive, too.

For kosher goods, there are two places to shop: (1) The kosher store, next to the synagogue, has a small selection of mostly useless items that you can find in other grocery stores in the city. They have one small freezer of kosher meat and the selection varies widely from week to week. If they have something you like, stock up! (2) The only other place is the Yeshiva store, which is even smaller, but has some pre-prepared items. It’s located two blocks from the synagogue. Ask there for detailed directions. They sell really good challah just before Shabbat!

5. Cooking and Baking – It’s hard to find inexpensive pots, pans, baking sheets, etc. and even harder to find ingredients that you can substitute for items you are used to getting back home. Start with a trip to either of the two local Ikea stores or a mega-grocery store (Lenta near Baltiskaya Metro or Okey near Ozerki Metro) to get cheap dishes, pots, pans and other kitchen goods. JDC should be able to arrange a car and driver for you to help you get your apartment set up. Then, consult the Ukranian Peace Corps cookbook, available online at http://pcukraine.org/current-volunteers/babusyas-cookbook.html or a variety of online cookbooks, like our favorite, http://allrecipes.com/ for recipes that can be made with local ingredients. Pureed soups made from frozen veggies are great during the cold, winter months and baking cookies or other goodies helps pass the time!

6. Ordering Bottled Water – Do not drink the tap water! Even the locals drink bottled water. You will need basic Russian language skills to call and order the water; ask someone from the JDC office to help you the first time. We ordered 15 6-liter bottles at a time, which lasted us roughly 8 weeks. They cost 41 rubles per bottle – slightly more than at the store, but the free delivery saved us lots of time and effort schlepping to and from the corner store. You can order the water by calling 331-1991.

7. Buying Theater Tickets – Almost every theater, with the stark exception of the Mariinsky, offers a large student discount on tickets. You will see the yellow theater kassas all over St. Petersburg. Basic Russian and sufficient cash are required to get tickets; ask someone to help you your first time if you are unsure. You can buy a complete, monthly theater guide at the beginning of each month, or get a free In Your Pocket. We highly recommend the Mussorgsky and State Conservatory over the Mariinsky if you are looking for economical theater experiences; however, the Mariinsky truly has an atmosphere and quality of performance that is unparalleled.

Having Fun Inside and Outside Russia

We strongly recommend getting the Rough Guide to St. Petersburg as a guidebook before you come. It will help you navigate the many tourist sites here. The best local source of information about what’s going on around town – including art exhibits, concerts, opera and ballet performances – is without a doubt In Your Pocket. You can pick up a copy at most hotels, although they’ve become so popular that you may have to ask for it specifically! It is published and distributed on the first of every month.

If you have a Russian student card, you will save bundles on most tourist sites. Even better if it’s from an institute of culture, as many cultural and historic sites (like the Hermitage and the Marble Palace) offer free entrance for students of culture.

Getting out of the city on a regular basis is a good idea, especially if you find yourself starting to go a little bit nuts – the fresh air at local parks is a nice change from the pollution of the city and provides opportunities to stay active. Although our blog captures our fun activities in great details, here is a quick listing of some of the fun things we did and some advice on which ones to avoid.

Palaces:

There are gobs of palaces that rival Versailles here, so it’s no wonder the Russian working class revolted against the aristocracy! Each of the following are definitely worth checking out at least once:

• Catherine’s Palace at Pushkin – A fabulous, must-see palace and beautiful grounds! Go early or late in the summer to avoid the throngs of tourists. Spend a day there and take a picnic to avoid the obscene palace café prices. Accessible by marshrutka from Moskovskaya Metro.
• Peterhof – Another wonderful must-see with amazing grounds! The fountains are breath-taking, but they are turned off during the winter months and it’s not worth going then. Accessible by marshrutka (from Avtovo Metro) or via hydrofoil from behind the Hermitage, along the Neva.
• Pavlovsk – A less exquisite palace, with an equally beautiful, albeit far larger and more natural outdoor park that could take days to explore. Far fewer tourists. Great place for a picnic, a bottle of wine and a good book. Accessible by marshrutka (from Moskovskaya Metro) or train.
• Gatchina – An interesting palace (with no grounds) because it has sections that have been left unrestored. A great palace to visit when you are “all palaced out!”
• Oranienbaum – A nice park, but most of the palaces there are in the midst of extensive renovation. Accessible by marshrutka (from Avtovo Metro).
• Mikhailovsky Castle – Somewhat unremarkable, except for its historical significance. Being in the city, though, makes it worth a visit.
• Yusupov – One of the nicest “small” palaces in the city; be sure to see where Rasputin was killed and the palaces quaint mini-theater. Great audio tour.
• Menshikov – Another interesting palace to see in the city; it’s more of a historic home from the mid-1700s than a palace. Buy the audio tour to understand what you’re seeing.
• Marble – This houses the Russian Museum’s Contemporary Art collection. We really enjoyed seeing the art and the palace.

Museums:

There are tons of museums here. We suggest sticking to the major ones and skipping the smaller, apartment-type museums.

• The Hermitage – Save it for the winter. Your Russian student card will get you in for free. Early Saturday or Sunday mornings in the winter are the best times to get in.
• Russian Museum – An excellent collection of art found only in Russia.
• Ethnographic Museum – This is a fascinating museum, filled with artifacts from different ethnic groups.
• Kunstkammera – A pretty average 19^th century museum, with one exception: the oddities room is truly bizarre and definitely worth seeing! You can skip the rest of the museum, or sail through it.
• Artillery Museum* – Great, if you’re into military history.
• Water Museum* – No need to see this at all.
• Freud Museum* – Another very specific museum worthy of being skipped.

* indicates that the museum is entirely, or almost entirely, in Russian

Short Trips from St. Petersburg:

Travel inside of Russia is a bit difficult. You have to go to the appropriate train station (with your passport and sufficient cash) to buy train tickets; likewise for buses. We suggest getting out of the country as much as you can afford, even for a long weekend. There are three discount airlines currently – Germanwings, AirBaltic, and Norwegian Air – which makes travel to Germany, Norway and the Baltics especially convenient. You can fly virtually any discount airline out of Helsinki, but it’s expensive and time-consuming to get there.

• Novgorod – A good daytrip (by marshrutka or train) from St. Petersburg to see an ancient town with a beautiful Kremlin.
• Kronshtadt – This island fortress is a beautiful place to hang out in the summer.
• Shlisselberg and Staraya Ladoga – These ancient fortresses are best seen as part of an organized tour, as they are difficult to reach via public transportation and information online is very limited.
• Moscow – Not to be missed. The overnight train, in a 4-person coupé, is a truly Russian experience. Good for a long weekend.
• Baltics –We especially recommend Tallinn and Riga! We flew AirBaltic, but you can also take an overnight bus or the daytime train.
• Helsinki and Scandinavia – Getting there is relatively easy by bus (cheaper) or train (faster), but food and hotel costs there are extremely expensive; still well worth the trip!